Wholesale Photo Camera Store News – in Bergen County, New Jersey / NJ

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Corrupt Memory Card

Bryan Peterson has written a book titled Understanding Exposure which is a highly recommended read if you’re wanting to venture out of the Auto mode on your digital camera and experiment with it’s manual settings.

In it Bryan illustrates the three main elements that need to be considered when playing around with exposure by calling them ‘the exposure triangle’.

Each of the three aspects of the triangle relate to light and how it enters and interacts with the camera.
The three elements are:

1. ISO – the measure of a digital camera sensor’s sensitivity to light
2. Aperture – the size of the opening in the lens when a picture is taken
3. Shutter Speed – the amount of time that the shutter is open

It is at the intersection of these three elements that an image’s exposure is worked out.

Most importantly – a change in one of the elements will impact the others. This means that you can never really isolate just one of the elements alone but always need to have the others in the back of your mind.

3 Metaphors for understanding the digital photography exposure triangle:

Many people describe the relationship between ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speed using different metaphors to help us get our heads around it. Let me share three. A quick word of warning first though – like most metaphors – these are far from perfect and are just for illustrative purposes:

Shutters – Photo by Liisa

The Window

Imagine your camera is like a window with shutters that open and close.

Aperture is the size of the window. If it’s bigger more light gets through and the room is brighter.

Shutter Speed is the amount of time that the shutters of the window are open. The longer you leave them open the more that comes in.

Now imagine that you’re inside the room and are wearing sunglasses (hopefully this isn’t too much of a stretch). Your eyes become desensitized to the light that comes in (it’s like a low ISO).

There are a number of ways of increasing the amount of light in the room (or at least how much it seems that there is. You could increase the time that the shutters are open (decrease shutter speed), you could increase the size of the window (increase aperture) or you could take off your sunglasses (make the ISO larger).

Ok – it’s not the perfect illustration – but you get the idea.

Sun-Baking – Photo by Sanchez

Sunbaking

Another way that a friend recently shared with me is to think about digital camera exposure as being like getting a sun tan.

Now getting a suntan is something I always wanted growing up – but unfortunately being very fair skinned it was something that I never really achieved. All I did was get burnt when I went out into the sun. In a sense your skin type is like an ISO rating. Some people are more sensitive to the sun than others.

Shutter speed in this metaphor is like the length of time you spend out in the sun. The longer you spend in the sun the increased chances of you getting a tan (of course spending too long in the sun can mean being over exposed).

Aperture is like sunscreen which you apply to your skin. Sunscreen blocks the sun at different rates depending upon it’s strength. Apply a high strength sunscreen and you decrease the amount of sunlight that gets through – and as a result even a person with highly sensitive skin can spend more time in the sun (ie decrease the Aperture and you can slow down shutter speed and/or decrease ISO).

As I’ve said – neither metaphor is perfect but both illustrate the interconnectedness of shutter speed, aperture and ISO on your digital camera.

Update: A third metaphor that I’ve heard used is the Garden Hose (the width of the hose is aperture, the length that the hose is left on is shutter speed and the pressure of the water (the speed it gets through) is ISO.

Bringing It All Together

Mastering the art of exposure is something that takes a lot of practice. In many ways it’s a juggling act and even the most experienced photographers experiment and tweak their settings as they go. Keep in mind that changing each element not only impacts the exposure of the image but each one also has an impact upon other aspects of it (ie changing aperture changes depth of field, changing ISO changes the graininess of a shot and changing shutter speed impacts how motion is captured).

The great thing about digital cameras is that they are the ideal testing bed for learning about exposure. You can take as many shots as you like at no cost and they not only allow you to shoot in Auto mode and Manual mode – but also generally have semi-automatic modes like aperture priority and shutter priority modes which allow you to make decisions about one or two elements of the triangle and let the camera handle the other elements.

Sometimes autofocus can be really annoying. For some shots it’ll focus on the right part of your subject, but then the very next shot it may choose to focus on something far and away into the background.

Sure, you could avoid this problem by always using manual focus, but autofocus is great when you need to focus quickly or when you’re photographing a landscape and you need to focus on a certain spot in the scene.

Well, autofocus doesn’t have to be annoying anymore, because here are three ways to get better control of it:

#1 – Press your shutter button half-way to activate autofocus and then recompose

Set your autofocus point to the center spot, then point this spot where you want to focus and press your shutter button half-way (don’t press it completely yet) to initiate autofocus. Then, while still holding down the button half-way, recompose your shot and press the button completely down to snap the photo.

#2 – Switch to manual focus after autofocusing

Use autofocus as you normally do, but once it focuses on the right spot, just switch off autofocus on your lens to manual focus. Your lens will keep the current focus when you do this. This method works well when your camera is on a tripod and you’re taking multiple exposures from the same spot, like when photographing a landscape.

#3 – Use back-button autofocusing

Normally, your camera will autofocus when you press the shutter button, but with back-button autofocusing, you have to press a button on the back of the camera instead, giving you complete control of when autofocus is initiated.

With back-button autofocusing, you can just set the autofocus point to the center spot, then point that where you want to focus, and finally press the back button to automatically focus on that point. Now for all the shots you take from that position, that focus will be maintained (the camera won’t randomly focus into the background anymore).

You can do the same thing without this back-button autofocusing by switching to manual focus after the camera focuses properly, but using the back button saves time and this way you don’t have to constantly switch back and forth between manual and autofocus (which can inadvertently move the camera sometimes).

Back-button focusing is especially helpful for photographing moving subjects, like birds in flight or other wildlife: just switch on the continuous focusing mode, set the autofocus point to the center spot, and hold down that back button. Now you don’t have to worry about accidentally hitting the shutter button while you’re tracking the subject in your viewfinder.

How to enable back-button autofocusing: Unfortunately, this feature is called something different on each camera, so you’ll probably have to do some digging around in your camera’s manual and “custom functions” to find it. If it’s not labelled clearly on your camera, try changing the settings of the different buttons on the back of your camera (like the AE lock button).

“It’s Fall here and the colors in the leaves in our town are wonderful. How can I capture their vibrancy? Every time I shoot them I end up with muddy and dull images!” – question by Grant

Image by Black Dog Photography

I love Autumn photography – you’re right the golden and red leaves on a background of lush green grass and beautiful blue skies is a wonderful thing. So how do you capture it? Here’s a few starting points to boost the colors in your Autumn photography (in fact they’re appropriate for boosting the colors in your Spring shots too):

1. Use a Polarising Filter
The saturation of colours that you get with one of these is fantastic. It is particularly useful in getting lovely blue skies but you’ll find that it decreases some of the haze that you often get at this time of year also.

2. Shoot in the Golden Hours
While you can get great results at any time of the day – I love shooting Autumn colors at the end of the day just before sunset when the light is golden. This accentuates the reds and golds even more than normal.

Image by Clearly Ambiguous

3. Don’t ignore the Overcast Days
Some people keep their cameras in their bags on days where the sun isn’t shining – but they can actually be the best days. I like overcast days because they help create a mood that you can’t get on a sunny day – plus the images are nice generally nice and rich.

4. Look for Contrasts
One way to accentuate the colors in your shots is to think about framing your shots in such a way that the different colors contrast with one another. Golden leaves on a blue sky – a red leaf on a lush green grass etc.

Image by harold.lloyd

5. Avoid Shooting Into the Sun
Shooting into the sun will result in shadows, lower saturation of colors and lens flare (which further reduces the impact of colors. On Sunny days – keep the sun at your back. If you do have to shoot into the sun use a lens hood or shield your lens with something to avoid lens flare.

6. Play with White Balance Settings
Sometimes Auto mode with White Balance won’t give you the most vibrant results. Warm up your colors by increasing the color temperature a touch (not too much). You can do this by increasing the kelvin numbers or by selecting a setting like ‘cloudy’ if your camera has semi-auto settings.

Image by ionushi

7. Warm Up Filters
I don’t use these anymore (I tend to make changes in Photoshop) but in my Film Camera days I did use a warm up filter on occasion to give my shots a slightly warmer glow.

8. Underexpose Your Shots (slightly)
Pull back the exposure on your shots a touch and you’ll find that it gives your colors a slightly deeper saturation. Again – much of this can be done in photoshop – particularly if you’re shooting in RAW.

Of course keep in mind that once you’ve taken your digital shots that you can always boost your shots on your computer afterward. This isn’t the place to go through it (as I mainly focus upon in camera techniques here) but if you shoot in RAW you’ll be in a good position to do some post production on your shots after.

Wholesale Photo Academy presents a new video series, filled with helpful tips & tricks to improve your photography. To watch an episode now, click one of the frames below:

Written by Peter Sawyer

When you set off on a shoot, there’s nothing worse than arriving only to find that you don’t have the right kit. This list of accessories covers some cool photography gadgets, from the essential to the uncommon – but no less useful!

The Tripod

It had to be on the list and proves to be vital when dealing with long exposure times or when using heavier telephoto lenses that you don’t want round your neck for long periods. Night time photography is almost impossible without a tripod, due to the longer exposures needed to allow the small amount of light into the lens. A tripod is much cheaper than an image stablising lens and you’re likely to be far more pleased with the resulting image.

My recommendations:

* Manfrotto 458B Neotec Pro Photo Tripod
Designed for professional use, the Neotec is ideal for both 35mm and medium format cameras, and has all the added features that make Manfrotto products leaders in their class.; This tripod is lightweight and perfect for those who need all-round performance. You can also buy new heads rather than buying a brand new pod.

* Promaster Digital 1 Tripod
This is a very cheap and cheerful tripod. If you don’t want to invest in an expensive tripod and just want to test one out, this is for you. Although it will naturally not be as stable and good as the Manfrotto it will still allow for longer shutter times.

* Heavy Duty Professional Aluminum Tripod with Ball Head for Camera/Video – Pro System 1N
Although the price is much cheaper than the Manfrotto, it is for the serious photographer and will keep your camera very stable. The ball head is a bonus allowing for perfect panoramic images and different positions a normal head wouldn’t offer. I own this tripod and the only disadvantage is the weight at around 6-7 kg, and the size (you cannot fit it easily into a camera rucksack).

Lensbaby SLR Lenses

Lensbaby camera lenses are a line of camera lenses that combine a simple lens with a bellows or ball and socket mechanism for use in special-effect photography. Results achieved with a Lensbaby mimic that of the Holga camera or other toy cameras, and it can be much cheaper than buying a tilt-shift lens.

There are currently 3 Lensbaby options to choose from, and each have their advantages and disadvantages. You can find out more info at the Lensbaby website.

The Lensbaby is available for several different lens mounts: Canon EF (EOS), Nikon F, Minolta Maxxum/Sony Alpha, Pentax K and the Olympus Four Thirds System.

Prices vary depending on which lens you choose.

White Balance Filter

You can easily set your digital camera’s white balance using the ExpoDisc Digital White Balance Filter. It’s convenient, fast and easy to use. Made out of metal, the ring easily snaps into and out of your lens filter threads. This is useful when snapping landscapes and is very easy to store in your bag.

Check out ExpoImagic for more details.

SD Card Storage

Although some cameras use Compact Flash memory, the majority have now shifted to using SD cards. Promaster has released an 32GB card which can hold an amazing 7000 photos from a 15MP camera. Though they are expensive at the moment, you can only expect prices to gradually lower over the next few years. The downside, of course, is that if your card fails for any reason you stand to lose a significant amount of data. Make sure you back it up when you can!

Gold/Silver/White Reflectors

Reflectors are a cheap and great way to change the light on a subject. They can be just as useful as flash guns and expensive lighting gear.

Gold reflectors are designed to add a warming effect to the image, which is best for when people and animals are involved. Silver and white reflectors simply reflect the light onto the subject.

Extension Tubes

The cheap way to achieve a macro effect. A tube contains no optical elements; its sole purpose is to move the lens farther from the image plane. They let you focus closer for macro work, though don’t offer the same quality as a dedicated macro lens. It’s a relative cheap way to get the desired effect.

When buying an extension tube, you have to decide if you need auto-focus or not. The auto-focusing extension tubes are a lot more expensive but worth it when dealing with quick moving objects.

Remote Shutter Switch

When dealing with longer exposures, we already said that you need to keep your camera still on a tripod. Equally important can be a remote shutter switch. These are designed so you can auto focus and then take the photo without touching the camera – therefore stopping unnecessary shake and blurring on your pictures.

They come in all different sizes but I would recommend looking for a wired switch, particularly if the wireless infrared panel is located on the front of your camera (such as the Canon 450D).

Monopod

A monopod, also called a unipod, is a single staff or pole used to help support cameras and video cameras. It has the same purpose as a tripod – to keep the camera steady when shooting long exposures. But unlike a tripod, monopods cannot support a camera independently. In the case of still cameras, this limits the shutter speed that can be used.

They are better than holding a camera in your hand, but don’t allow you to reach the really high shutter speeds. Why would you want one? They fold up to a very small length, are lightweight, and can be easily transported.

Monopods again come in all shapes and sizes, so here are my 2 of my recommendations:

* Manfrotto 682B Self Standing Monopod

A heavy-duty three section monopod featuring a handy addition of three retractable legs which allow it to stand upright on its own… especially useful when changing film/flashcard or swapping lenses mid shoot.

* Promaster SystemPRO Monopod

This is a professional four section monopod featuring a foam rubber comfort grip and a wrist strap. Quick action lock levers allow the tubular leg to be extended and set for quick use. Its adjustable spiked foot gives you traction for a steady shot.

Opteka Fisheye Lens

This fisheye adapter is a good buy for those of you who just want to play around without having to pay hundreds for a fisheye lens. Depending on what attachment you buy, some can be used on an HD camcorder as well for cool fisheye footage.

Check out the Opteka website for specific camera pricing.

Pro Micro-fibre Cloth

This cloth was one of the cheapest but single most important items I bought when I went away on my last holiday. Dust kept coming onto my lens, spoiling my photos. This micro-fibre cloth picked up all the dirt.

Costing around $5 it’s certainly worth getting one. They’re far easier than carrying around a large duster or using your t-shirt (which is a terrible idea)

A Magazine Subscription

It all depends upon where you live, and which magazines are available in your country. I find it interesting to see how other people view a particular scene differently, and you can learn things you never even thought of before. Magazines are generally up-to-date and written and edited to a very high standard.

Buying a new lens will not turn you into a pro overnight, but simply reading up on taking good photos and looking at tutorials can be a great step forward.

A Digital Photo Frame

This is a great way to show off your photos. Family and friends can easily comment on different photos, allowing you to see which type of images are received best.

Obviously these frames vary dramatically in quality. Some will make your photos look great – others will display a dull, unappealing image.

iPhone Zoom Lens

I don’t own a iPhone or iPod touch, but I had to put this invention in here. The iPhone Camera telescope allows your cell phone camera to zoom in across long distances with the power of a digital camera. It’s a touch on the gimmicky side (particularly when considering the fairly poor iPhone camera quality), but worth considering if you use your mobile for candid shots.

The Big Red One

Although this video camera is for those in the film industry, I felt like it deserved a mention due to the technological leap forward it represents.

Typical high-end HD camcorders have 2.1M pixel sensors and record with 3:1:1 color sub-sampled video at up to 30fps. RED offers a far more advanced sensor, which provides 4K (up to 30 fps), 3K (up to 60 fps) and 2K (up to 120 fps) capture – all this with wide dynamic range and color space in 12 bit native RAW.

This represents more than 5 times the amount of information available every second over a standard HD camera, and a vastly superior recording quality. In addition, you get the same breathtaking depth of field and selective focus as found in film cameras using equivalent 35mm P/L mount lenses.

Having been able to use the Red One and see it’s amazing results, I am able to understand why it is the number one video camera at the current time. It’s not cheap, and isn’t by any means a “must have” gadget for photographers.

Costing around 17,000 USD for the body alone, then 20,000 USD for the basic prime lenses, I wouldn’t expect to see it on your Christmas list!

Insect Repellent

If you are in the great outdoors – regardless of the country you’re in – insect repellent is a must! I have been bitten countless times when out on a shoot, and strongly recommend you have a small spray handy. It’s incredibly easy to overlook.

A Camera Bag

No doubt you had to buy a proper camera bag when you purchased an SLR, but you most likely you grabbed the first one the sales assistant recommended. Camera bags come in all different shapes and sizes. You can get an easy traveling, lightweight bag which only just fit your SLR, or you can get a fully packed backpack with room for 4-5 lenses as well as your camera.

Here are my recommendations:

* Lowerpro DryZone Rover

Water and camera equipment in the same bag used to spell disaster. The DryZone Rover is the world’s first backpack designed to safely carry both a hydration system and camera gear all inside the same bag. The unique design of the DryZone Rover allows you to comfortably store camera equipment or other water sensitive items in the waterproof lower compartment while providing quick access to personal storage space above.

Remove the padded camera insert from the lower drypod and you instantly have a multi-purpose waterproof pack. Perfect for the adventure photographer in remote and extreme conditions, the DryZone Rover keeps you hiking, hydrated and shooting longer.

* Lowerpro super trekker AW II

Serious photographers look to the Super Trekker AW II. Hi-tech materials and a fully adjustable harness system – the most technically advanced of any camera pack – ensure perfect weight distribution and extraordinary comfort.

* Tamrac 5513 ADVENTURE ZOOM 3 DSLR Camera Case

The Tamrac Adventure Zoom 3 will hold a DSLR camera with a zoom lens up to 3″ long attached plus an assortment of small accessories such as batteries and memory cards.

Optech Rainsleeve

If it starts raining but you cannot afford to miss the action, the Optech rainsleeve is a great buy. It offers protection for camera, lens and flash unit in all types of wet-weather conditions. Featuring an eyepiece opening that allows viewing through the actual viewfinder, rather than the plastic, and a drawstring enclosure that accommodates any lens up to seven inches in diameter.

Costing around 12 USD they are invaluable if the pictures you shoot are important.

Cheaper rainsleeves are out there if you don’t need to cover a flashgun and zoom lens – just have a look around!

Thanks for Reading

I hope this list has interested you. I’d like to note that I didn’t include any filters in this list as I am going make a featured article on them at a later date.

Photography gadgets and gizmos are a very personal thing, and different people swear by different models and brands of accessory. It would be great to see some lively discussion in the comments, so I’d like to pose the question “What’s your absolute favorite camera accessory”?

Feel free to have your two cents!

by Darren Rowse of Digital Photography School

Photo blaine davis

On the birth of our first child we were given by a friend a gift certificate for a photographic family portrait. The deal included one photo shoot in a studio and some prints.

While I had taken thousands of shots of our baby I thought it’d be fun to go in for our photo shoot – after all it was free and I’m always interested to see how other photographers work.

There is a lot that I could say about the shoot and the photographer (I’ll refrain from getting too picky) but one of the main things I came away reflecting upon is how much more I prefer location oriented (or environmental) portrait photography than studio based photography.

While I know a good photographer can work wonders in a studio (I’m not so sure the photographer we had fit in the ‘good’ photographer category) shooting in a location where the subject is comfortable and has some familiarity with has a lot going for it.

By ‘on location’ or ‘environmental’ portraits I mean portraits taken of people in a situation that they live in (work, rest or play) and/or a place that says something about who they are. Before I get into some ‘how to’ tips for taking environmental portraits let me chat a little about ‘why’ I like them.

Image by Sukanto Debnath

Why do I prefer environmental portraits?

• they give context to the subject you’re photographing

• they give points of interest to shots (something you need to watch as you don’t want to distract from your subject too much)

• they help your subject relax

• they often give the viewer of your shots real insight into the personality and lifestyle of your subject

These shots sit somewhere between the purposely posed shots of a studio portrait (they are posed and they are unmistakably ‘portraits’) and candid shots which capture people almost incidentally as they go through their daily life.

So lets turn our attention to some ‘how to’ tips on environmental portraits.

How to Take Environmental Portraits – the Tips:

Spend time getting to know your subject:

Photo sabfoto

Before you select a location and start shooting, spend some time getting to know your subject. Find out where they spend their time, what the rhythm of their life is like and observing their personality. Out of this you’ll not only find appropriate locations but will begin to get a feel for the style of shots that might be appropriate and you’ll begin the process of helping your subject relax into the photo shoot. If possible it might even be helpful to accompany your subject to some possible locations to see both how they look but also how your subject behaves and interacts there.

Choosing a Location

Sometimes a location chooses you (it’s easy) but on other occasions you need to be quite deliberate and purposeful in making your choice (and it can take a lot of searching). When choosing your environment you ideally want to get one that:

• says something about your subject – after all that’s what this style of photography is all about

• adds interest to the shot – as I’ve written in previous tutorials – every element in an image can add or detract from your shots. The environment that you place your subject in needs to provide context and be interest without overwhelming the shot

• doesn’t dominate the shot – sometimes the location can dominate the image so much that it distracts your viewer away from your main focal point (the subject). Try to avoid cluttered backgrounds (and foregrounds), colors that are too bright etc. Keep in mind that you might be able to decrease the distractions with clever use of cropping, depth of field and subject placement.

Props?

Photo envycleopatra

Props can make or break an environmental portrait. If they are subtle and naturally fit within the context of the environment they can be very appropriate and add to the image nicely but you’ll want to avoid anything that doesn’t quite fit or that potentially distracts the attention of viewers.

The same goes for the clothes that your subject wears. Try to be true to the context without getting too outlandish.

Posing

What sets the environmental portrait apart from candid portraits is that you post your subject (it’s a fine line and you might end up doing a bit of both in any given shoot). Don’t be afraid to direct your subject to sit, stand or act in a certain way that fits with the environment that you’re shooting in. Some of the poses might seem slightly unnatural and dramatic but it’s often these more purposely posed shots that are more dramatic and give a sense of style to your shot.

The expression on the face of your subject is also very important in environmental photography and you should consider how it fits with the overall scene. For example if you’re shooting in a formal environment it may not be appropriate to have your subject with a big cheesy smile and you might like a more somber or serious look. Again – mix it up to see what does and doesn’t work.

Image by Carf

Camera Settings

There is no right or wrong way to set your camera up for an environmental portrait as it will depend completely upon the effect you’re after and the situation you’re shooting in. You might find that shooting at a smaller aperture (larger numbers) will be appropriate as it will help keep the foreground and background in focus. I generally shoot with a wider focal length in these situations also to give the environment prominence in the shot. Of course this doesn’t mean you can’t shoot more tightly cropped or with a large aperture and shallow depth of field – ultimately anything goes and you’ll probably want to mix up your shots a little.

Have you done any environmental portrait photography? What tips would you give other readers? Feel free to share your tips below in comments.

Image by Diego DeNicola

It’s probably the most common question asked when dealing with photography. Go ahead, say it with me…. “What camera do you use?”. The second someone sees an amazing picture, they don’t ask about your photography background, how many hours you’ve spent studying, shooting, reading, editing. No, none of the credit goes to you. It all goes to the camera. And maybe a little to the lens. So how important is the camera? Well, it’s pretty important, but not all that it’s cracked up to be. So for those of you who need a little guidance in which camera you should buy, I’m going to tell you.

When it comes to buying a camera, there are two companies – Nikon and Canon – that are dominating the industry. What’s the difference? In my experience with using both of them, I have found that Nikon gives a sharper, more concentrated look, and Canon gives a softer, more delicate look. Keep that in mind – but also the lens possibilities before you decide which way you will swing. Once you have decided that, here are our suggestions for cameras:

For the beginners who want to graduate from the point and shoot to DSLR (Digital Single Lens Reflex), but don’t want to spend a fortune. The people who will never change the dial off Auto. You just want better pictures w/o the extra work. You’re a casual photographer who never plans on going pro. You want to keep it well under $1,000. Simple. Affordable. Nice pictures. Here’s your camera:

Nikon:

Nikon D40.

Canon:

EOS Rebel XS (a.k.a. 1000D)

Now we take a step up to those who are taking photography to the next level. Not just casual, but a serious hobby and maybe hoping to go pro one day. Still don’t want to spend 3 months rent for your camera, but are willing to make a little more of a sacrifice to reap the benefits of the outcome of picture quality. Your ranged of budget is somewhere between $1,000-$2,000. Committed. Determined. Passionate. Here’s your camera:

Nikon:

D90


Canon:

EOS 50D

And now for the bigwigs. I probably don’t even have to recommend anything, because if you are serious enough to drop this much money on camera equipment, then you probably already know what you are doing and have done the research yourself. But just for kicks, I’ll add my two cents. We’re talking full frame, complete and total camera package. Budget: $2,000+. Professional. Serious. Moneymaker.

Nikon:

D3

Canon:

EOS 5D Mark II

There you have it folks. Now get shopping.

Well we’ve finally done it. We have created a FAN page for Wholesale Photo & Digital Cafe on Facebook. Now in addition to our awesome blog & newsletter, you guys have another way to find out all the great things that are going on at Wholesale Photo. We will be updating the Facebook page with loads of great info, including special FAN rewards (similar to our newsletter only specials) so be sure to go and become a FAN today. You wouldn’t want to miss out on all the great things happening here. Also, as a Thank you to all of you, our great customers, we are giving away a FREE 8×10 print to anyone who becomes a FAN. Use it either online or in our store on one of our great kiosks.

Speaking of our great Kiosks, we’ve just upgraded them all to the NEW Version 7.0 software. It’s a great new look and feel with the same ease of use (some might say even easier). TONS of new products like great gifting options, loads of new templates for cards, calendars & books as well as the all new Quick photo books which allow you to create an entire photobook without having make sure pictures are cropped properly or edited, it’s all done for you, automatically! Come on in and check them out today!

Summer heat & humidity can be very hard on Video tapes & Movie films. It can cause irreversable damage & decay while fading away those precious memories. Video Transfer is the solution.
Going on right now through the end of August we are having a Video Transfer special. On any video or film transfer order you place you will receive a FREE Duplicate copy*
With all those old boxes of movie film & tapes collecting dust in the closet, now is the time to bring them in.

*ask for details